Rose Care, Throughout the Year

Spring and Summer

  • Plant the bud union 5 cm below the soil line.
  • Fertilize with Transplanter 5-15-5.
  • After three or four weeks, change to a brand name rose food. Established roses should be fed every week from early spring to late August.
  • On the premise that prevention is easier than a cure, spray once per week with insecticide/fungicide.

Rose Care

 

 

 

Fall or Early Winter

  • Change from rose food to 0-0-20(straight potassium) for overwintering vigour.  Let the last flowers go to seed; do not prune.
  • When the soil is frozen, tie up the rosecanes, install a rose collar and fill it with soil.

 

Rose Care

 

 

 

The Following Spring

  • Remove the collar and then the soil as itthaws.
  • Cut back the strongest canes to 10 or15 cm, cutting to an outward facing bud.
  • Start to fertilize when growth begins. Everblooming roses need to be well nourished.

 

Soil

The rose bed or planting hole should be well-prepared. Dig deep, at least 45 cm. The soil should be two parts sandy clay loam, one part well-composted manure and one part peat moss, plus 4 kg of bonemeal for every 10 square metres or, a cupful for each plant.

Depth of Planting

Choice roses are produced by buddingselected types to hardy rootstock.The bud union, which may look like aswollen portion at the bottom of thecanes, should, in our Canadianclimate, be planted one or two inchesbelow the soil. Be aware thatAmerican or English publications mayspecify the union above the soil.

Fertilizer

Newly planted, potted roses shouldbe fertilized with diluted transplanter.Follow the label’s instructions.Established roses should be fertilizedwith a name brand rose food. Theseformulations contain many traceelements essential to the roseshealth. Apply in early May, mid-Juneand again in mid-July.

Spraying

For disease- and insect-free roses, a combination fungicide/insecticide spray should be applied every week, commencing in spring as soon as buds begin to swell and growth begins.

Watering

Roses should be watered deeply and well once per week. The best method in beds is to use a trickle hose that can be left on running slowly on the ground, thereby avoiding wetting of the foliage and splattering of the soil.

Mulching

Cocoa bean shells make an excellent mulch for roses. They dress the bed, conserve moisture and keep down weeds. Other suitable mulches include bark chunks or shredded bark.

Winterizing

Start thinking of over-wintering your roses in mid-July at the time of your last fertilization. The rose canes should be allowed to harden off; they should not be succulent. Reduce the watering schedule in the fall. Allow the last flush of flowers on the plant to go to seed.

When the ground is frozen, (not too early, mid- to late November)  hill up the rose canes with soil, which you have kept unfrozen for this specific purpose, to a height of 45 cm. Do not prune at this time, unless the canes are so tall they could whip about in the winter winds, thereby damaging themselves or disturbing the hill of protective soil. Leave as much cane as possible. In beds or in mass plantings, rose collars are a must, — they are easy to use and reduce the amount of soil required. Where collars are not used, the hill of soil, once frozen, should be covered with evergreen boughs after Christmas so that the soil remains frozen and does not thaw in mild spells.

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